By Brian Hernandez
U.S. Pizza Team Premiere Member Wilhelm Rodriguez, owner of Papa’s Pizza in Cabo Rojo, Puerto Rico, is a 15-year veteran of the squad with more than 30 years of pizza experience. Acting on his love of pizza and people, he attended and graduated from the Accademia Pizzaiolo in Italy, gaining his Master Instructor status in 2022.
Having once marched in the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City with the team, wowed international TV audiences with his freestyle acrobatic skills and conquered the pizza scene in his small island paradise, Rodriguez felt it was time to give back to the industry by shaping the next generation of pizza makers. Now he’s teaching the American and Neapolitan/Contemporary styles at the Accademia Pizzaioli USA in Miami and will be a featured speaker at PMQ’s Pizza Power Forum, September 4-5 in Atlanta, where he’ll share the stage with other amazing pizzaioli to discuss the topic, “Perfecting Your Dough: Tips and Tricks.”
We persuaded Rodriguez to set aside some time to talk about dough, micro-blistering and the importance of time in the process. Here’s what we learned.
Brian Hernandez: How did you get started in pizza?
Wilhelm Rodriguez: When I was 13 years old, I would walk by a pizza shop every day. I got to know the owner, and he started giving me tasks to do around the pizzeria—cleaning and things like that. Whenever I would finish my tasks, I would always go over to where they were making the pizzas to watch them. I was learning, but I also wanted them to see that I wanted to make pizzas. I was trying to get noticed.
Hernandez: What is micro-blistering?
Rodriguez: Gas. It’s the small bubbles of CO2 from the gas being created by fermentation. When I used to work at that pizzeria when I was younger, the guys working there would use those dough blisters to tell if the dough was ready, if there was enough air in it. It’s an old method, but it worked.
Hernandez: Do micro-blisters add flavor?
Rodriguez: They can double your flavor. Remember that those bubbles come from fermentation, and you have all that gas trapped in them. When you bite into them, the flavor’s going to explode in your mouth.
Hernandez: What causes them?
Rodriguez: Time, fermentation, temperature of the oven, flour and process are the main things you need to pay attention to. You need a lot of fermentation to get those blisters. You need at least 36 hours of fermentation for any good dough, but I think a good range [in which] to start seeing some blisters would be 56 to 60 hours. The way that you handle the dough is very important. You must handle it gently and respect the cornicione if you want to get those blisters. You want to trap all that gas in the dough skin when you are working with it.
Hernandez: What benefits does micro-blistering offer?
Rodriguez: The look of the pizza is amazing. Everyone is going to be staring at that pizza as it comes through the pizzeria. But you will also get all of that extra flavor and a crispier crust. Believe me, it’s totally different from your regular pizza. When you have a slice in your hand, it’s going to feel very light….Most of the bubbles are on the outside of the crust, giving you the crunch. But on the inside, you’re going to have more chewiness. Those bubbles will protect the inside of the dough while it’s cooking in the oven, helping to keep moisture trapped inside so your dough won’t dry out during the bake.
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Hernandez: Do micro-blisters affect the texture and mouthfeel of the inside of your crust? Will you notice a difference past that first bite?
Rodriguez: Most of the bubbles are on the outside of the crust, giving you the crunch. But on the inside, you’re going to have more chewiness. Those bubbles will protect the inside of the dough while cooking in the oven, helping to keep moisture trapped inside so your dough won’t dry out during the bake.
Hernandez: Is there a way to speed up this process?
Rodriguez: Yes, but I don’t recommend it. Let’s say you need some emergency or same-day dough. You could use a poolish or a biga to speed up the process, especially since starters are basically just concentrated fermentation factories already running. This could probably get you some blisters in about 24 hours if done right. But time is still the best method for fermentation, structure and flavor. Using a poolish or biga, along with a longer ferment time, will always add more flavor, but nothing will get you that structure and natural fermentation flavor more than time. Time, Brian…time.
Hernandez: Time. Heard. If you give any dough recipe enough time, can you achieve micro-blistering?
Rodriguez: Again, it all depends on many factors, but it is achievable. You can get these blisters on a Sicilian or grandma and using most ovens, but it all depends on that dough’s process and how long it ferments. You won’t always be able to see the blisters on the outside in all pizza styles, but you would be able to tell by the texture of the crust inside.
Hernandez: Aside from time, what else do you need to achieve micro-blisters?
Rodriguez: You definitely want a high-protein flour for your dough and a hydration of about 60-64%. All of that should get you some nice bubbles in your crust.
Hernandez: What is your best tip for more flavor in your dough?
Rodriguez: I really recommend a biga. It’s going to add a little sweetness to your dough, but it definitely adds to the flavor. I enjoy making dough recipes with a biga. But I also recommend testing it with both. A poolish and a biga will give you different structures in your dough, but you can find out more about that in Atlanta at the Pizza Power Forum (September 4-5). I will be talking about advanced dough techniques, the science behind fermentation, and tips for improving the flavor and texture of your pizza.
Hernandez: As an instructor, what is the one thing you have had to correct in most of your students?
Rodriguez: Patience. Not letting your dough rise long enough before using it. People not giving the dough time for the natural fermentation process to do its job. Another one is yeast. People are trying to speed up the process, but this changes the dough chemistry. Without the time, the dough is not going to sit right with you. You’re not going to feel light when you finish that pizza. You’re not going to feel well.
Hernandez: Any final thoughts about the industry before we finish up?Rodriguez: I’m really happy right now because I think the industry is at the top of the pyramid. You see all of the social media and all of the people making pizza in their homes. Pizza is big, for real. Buckle up and enjoy the ride.
