With their 1975 hit song, “Squeeze Box,” The Who made accordions sexy—sort of. But there’s no dirty-minded double meaning behind the name of SQZBX Brewery & Pizza Joint in Hot Springs, Arkansas.

Well, we don’t think so anyway.

SQZBX features a microbrewery and full bar in the back and a pass-through window at the front, allowing customers a glimpse into the pizza-making process as they walk through the door. The unique concept, located in a historic building that once housed a piano repair shop, recently caught the attention of Vox.com, which engaged owners Cheryl Roorda and Zac Smith in a Q&A.

Roorda plays the accordion herself, while Smith plays a tuba-like instrument called an E-flat helicon. The couple earned recognition across central Arkansas for their traveling accordion-and-tuba musical act (yes, you read that right). “The name of our band was the Itinerant Locals, and every summer we’d throw the kids in the car and drive around America, playing wherever we could set up gigs,” Smith told Vox.

They spent 45 days riding on trains for an Amtrack tour and even joined a traveling circus at one point. “We had a lifestyle that was very much about being present with our children,” Smith said, “playing music in ways that felt joyful to us—and, we hope, to our audiences—and living in a way that was really great but was not highly renumerative.”

In other words, there’s not a lot of money in the accordion-and-tuba business.

So they eventually settled down and bought the building on Ouachita Avenue, one of Hot Spring’s well-traveled downtown streets. Before opening the restaurant, the music-loving couple started KUHS-LP, a low-power, volunteer-run FM radio station, out of the building, drawing attention to the venue before the pizzeria itself came to life.

 Additional renovations were paid for with a traditional SBA loan, and SQZBX finally opened in December 2017. “It took off immediately,” Roorda told Vox. “The first day we were open, I sold a thousand dollars of pizza. That’s when I knew it was going to work. Then that became standard, and then that wasn’t even enough. It’s still shocking to me that you can sell this much food in a day because this isn’t even a big town.”

Smith added, “From our projections that they gave us a commercial loan on—our first-year projections—we essentially doubled it.”The decor at SQZBOX is both funky and tasteful, with a chill vibe. Roorda and Smith built SQZBX’s theme and design around the broken instruments left behind by the building’s previous tenants. Accordions and drums double as decorative elements, and the bar was even built using large sections of old pianos. The accordion motif also plays out in figurines such as a golden skeleton wearing a top hat and gripping a squeezebox, as well as a tiny accordion-playing mouse. A small piano keyboard hangs on one wall—a clever symbol of the owners’ willingness to upend expectations of a pizzeria.

In addition to craft beers brewed by Smith using local spring water from the surrounding mountains, SQZBX offers made-from-scratch pizzas, subs and appetizers like Pepperoni Chips—baked pepperoni served with a side of marinara.

Smith noted that he and Roorda worked for years in the service industry before launching SQZBX. “For many years, I would stand up there with my tuba and a full liter of Spaten Pils,” he recalled in the Vox interview. “I was playing music, getting drunk and bringing everyone along on the journey with me. We were the face of the restaurant. But we’d ask ourselves, ‘Who’s making money tonight?’ And the answer was, not us.”