Keeping It Simple, With an Eye on Tradition

According to the New York Times, “At Frankie and Fanucci’s, a pizzeria that has replaced Lia’s in the village of Hartsdale, the first thing diners might see is the five-pound can of San Marzano plum tomatoes that doubles as a doorstop on the sidewalk out front. It’s a nice improvisational touch, a simple solution that captures the easy practicality and loose charm of the place.”

Frankie and Fanucci’s, which opened in the spring, serves wood-fired pizzas without the usual wood-fired-pizza posturing. This isn’t Williamsburg, it’s Hartsdale, and diners hankering for pizzas topped with mizuna, guanciale or hen-of-the-woods mushrooms might be disappointed. At Frankie and Fanucci’s, the Amici pizza comes fully loaded with mozzarella, meatballs, sausage and pepperoni. In a concession to trends, onions are caramelized, but otherwise the list of toppings is what you would expect at a neighborhood pizza joint. The menu is not limited to pizza. Three big, delicious salads — arugula with goat cheese and pistachios; mixed greens with roasted walnuts, pears and gorgonzola; and a creamy, garlicky Caesar shot through with anchovy — all but upstaged the pizzas we sampled. (Salads arrived with a stack of small white plates and serving spoons to encourage sharing.),” the story said.