Whole eggs or egg whites have been added to pizza doughs for a long time, and for different reasons. But it depends on the type of pizza you’re making, and they’re generally not needed at all. Since eggs can alter the dough’s texture and flavor profile, you probably shouldn’t use them in Neapolitan-style, New York-style or thin-crust pizzas. And if you’re looking for a light, airy and chewy texture, stick to the standard ingredients: flour, water, yeast and salt.
On the other hand, adding whole eggs to the dough can provide better browning characteristics to the dough and, to some extent, a subtly richer flavor. Egg whites have been added to improve the crispiness of the baked crust. For these purposes, egg whites do the job well.
Even so, eggs have their drawbacks.
Adding six large whole eggs (about 13.5 ounces) to 40 to 50 pounds of flour will enhance browning to some extent, lending the crust a nice, rich golden color. The crust will also taste slightly richer. Even so, this could be lost in baking due to the overpowering flavors commonly used in making a pie.
All things being equal, the crust color will be a little darker, but it’s difficult to justify the cost of eggs as a browning agent when sugar and whey (the dairy component) are less costly.
Some pizza makers have been adding egg whites to achieve a crispier crust for many years, and it’s effective, but again, it comes with a pretty hefty cost. Typically, 2% egg white has been added to the dough to improve crispiness. This equates to 1 pound per 50 pounds of flour in the dough. That said, in most cases, you can boost the crispiness of a crust by simply baking the pie for a minute or so longer—which is a very low cost option.
Finally, there is a major safety concern that must be addressed if you elect to use fresh eggs. It is much safer, from a food safety standpoint, to use pasteurized, frozen egg products.
If you decide to use eggs, precautions must be taken to prevent any possible contamination of your pizzas or other products. For starters, purchase your eggs from a reputable supplier, and, if available, choose pasteurized eggs to eliminate harmful bacteria. Don’t use expired or cracked eggs under any circumstances. Keep the eggs properly refrigerated.
If the dough will be left out for proofing or fermenting, limit the time at room temperature. A short initial rise at room temperature followed by cold fermentation in the refrigerator is often ideal. Cold fermentation slows bacterial growth and enhances dough flavor.
Again, you probably don’t need to add eggs to your dough mix. Some pizza makers use them, but most don’t. And if you cater to a vegan crowd, you should definitely avoid eggs in your pizza dough!
The late Tom Lehmann was a regular contributor to PMQ, a leading industry consultant and the longtime director of bakery assistance for the American Institute of Baking. This article originally appeared in the September 2004 issue of PMQ Pizza and has been updated with additional information to keep the content fresh and relevant.
