See exclusive tours of the Italian flour companies Caputo and 5 Stagione at PizzaTV.com" target="_blank">www.PizzaTV. com.

In Italy, flour has several classifications and each one is assigned a number in the rating system. The standard ratings, or classifications, are “1”, “0”, or “00”, which refers to the actual grinding of the flour and its coarseness (the popular “00” flour used in pizza making shares the same consistency as talcum powder). The rating also refers to the amount of bran and germ that’s been removed. Italian flours are usually unbleached and do not contain additives, giving them a slightly creamy color. The milling process is much slower than the methods used in American flour milling (many Italian purists believe faster milling destroys the flour). Italian “00” flour is made from Italian wheat varieties and/or imported wheat from Canada, France, the United States and other countries to achieve a range of protein of about 10–12.5%. Some of the Italian flour brands you can find in the U.S. are Caputo, Bel Aria and Delverde. To learn more about Italian flour and milling, Steve Green visited the Caputo Flour Company and 5 Stagioni (which means “Seasons”) Flour Company while recently touring Italian pizza suppliers. You can view complete flour tours of these Italian manufacturers and listen to them discuss the milling process, uses and opinions about Italian flours at PizzaTV.com and also visit with representatives from these companies at PMQ’s Orlando Pizza Show.

During these tours, Steve learned that many of the Italian flour manufacturers aren’t simply satisfied with their age-old methods of milling. 5 Stagioni is actively researching and contributing to major Italian universities, such as the University of Parma, to create new and more advanced flours that are specifically designed for pizza making. Some of these hybrids include flours specifically designed for people who are Celiacs (gluten intolerant) and even those who are lactose intolerant. In all, Italian flour manufacturers produce over 20 different pizza-specific flours that cater to many different needs and recipes.

Domestic versions are usually called Italian-style. You can also find an Italian “00” version made by King Arthur Flour Company. This particular version has a protein level of 8.5%, which is quite a bit lower than imported Italian “00” flour. Due to the difference in protein level, the way this flour performs in making dough may vary from the way the imported “00” flours perform.
When making “true” Italian-style breads there are some purists who will say that only real Italian flour, such as the Caputo or 5 Stagioni brands should be used. To some extent there might be some truth to this, but you have to admit that here in the U.S., these Italian made flours are the new kids on the block. Italian bakers have been making some pretty decent Italian breads with the domestic flours that have been available to bakers here for a good many years now.

“In Roseland, Illinois, where my first wife grew up, there was a dominant Italian population comprised largely of Italian immigrants,” said Tom Lehmann “My wife was one of the second-born generations here in the U.S. Since most of the older generation was used to working with ingredients both in the bakery and at home that were common to them back in Italy, they actively sought out ingredients that were similar to those they were used to using back home in Italy.”

“One of these ingredients happened to be a brand of flour called Ceresota. This flour was sold through food stores and retail distributors for use in the hotel and restaurant trade. Ceresota flour was so similar to the flour that the old, Italian bakers and housewives were accustomed to using that they readily embraced it, and used it for most of their baking needs.”

Ceresota, 5 Stagioni and Caputo brand flours have a lower protein level than many of the commonly used bread type flours, and as a result, the doughs they produce are not as difficult to handle or shape as the doughs made from higher-protein bread-type flours. Today, Ceresota brand flour is still a very dominant flour in the Chicago region, and even though Caputo brand flour is now available, old habits can be difficult to break.

If you’re thinking about producing some authentic, Italian baked goods, you now have the option of purchasing the “real thing” in one of several imported Italian-brand flours, or one of the lower-protein bread flours such as General Mills King Wheat, or other brand equivalents. It’s now easy to make great tasting breads with the “old world” texture and appearance that’s so rapidly becoming popular amongst consumers everywhere. Unlike bakers and pizzeria operators of the past, today we have a wonderful selection of authentic ingredients to choose from as well—flour, tomatoes, cheese, meats—you name it. When it comes to Italian bread-making, you can now be as “authentic” as you want to be, or your customers demand that you be. Once again, to gain more insight into authentic Italian flour milling, the processes it employs, tours of factories and interviews with Antimo Caputo (Caputo Flour) and Riccardo Aqugiaro (5 Stagioni), go to PizzaTV.com.

<< Back to Table of Contents