ITALIAN COFFEE: A CAFÉ IS NOT JUST A DINING PLACE By Tom Boyles - PMQ Editor-in-Chief

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Café originally applied to the coffee house popularized in the 18th century. Although a modern café will specialize in espresso – sometimes from its own torrefazione or roasting plant – the term has become synonymous with a restaurant. In Italy, a café is not usually a dining place, as a café so often is elsewhere. But there are exceptions.
From the very beginning, the art of coffee making became the subject of ongoing debates as each and every town in Italy developed its own secret techniques, some of which even found their way on to the pages of Italian literature.

Through the centuries, Italians invented many coffee-making tools and utensils, most of which have now been lost or forgotten. The only two still in use today are the household one called moka and the espresso coffee machine used in cafés. Some people also use the napoletana, a simple aluminum pot that requires great skill if one is to make a good quality cup of coffee with it.

One cannot talk about Italian coffee without mentioning that other great Italian beverage: cappuccino. This well-known beverage is a classic feature of Italian cafés, not to be confused with its cousin, the caffelatte. Cappuccino is made with espresso coffee to which the barman adds milk that has been brought to a foaming boil using a gush of steam. The combination of these ingredients and the skill of the barman yield a unique beverage that has been copied all over the world and, yet, is quite inimitable.

While coffee has been known in the Muslim East since remote times, it was first introduced in the West in the 17th century, when Prospero Alpino, a botanist and physician, brought back to Venice some sacks of coffee that he had acquired during a trip in the East.

In 1763, there were as many as 218 coffee houses in Venice. Coffee, considered to be a token of love and friendship, had become extremely popular. Venetian lovers would send trays full of chocolates and coffee to their loved ones as proof of their love and affection.

But in Italy as elsewhere, coffee hasn’t had an entirely easy life. In the beginning, its popularity alarmed the Catholic Church. Some of its more fanatical members claimed that it was the “beverage of Satan” and urged Pope Clement VIII to ban its consumption by the believers. The Pope, however, decided to taste a cup of coffee himself and soon came to the conclusion that there was no harm in drinking it. Needless to say, the pontiff’s approval opened the doors to future successes.

In the eighteenth century, coffee became known as the “beverage of the intellectuals.” Men of culture, in fact, were not only convinced that coffee was a refreshing beverage, but they also argued that it could cure almost any illness.

If you own a pizzeria or Italian restaurant, serving plain American coffee makes about as much sense as filling up a Ferrari with rubbing alcohol. If you want to complete the Italian dining experience, finishing off the meal with an Italian coffee, espresso, Granita al limon, or Granita al caffe is more appropriate…and profitable.

Making Coffee With a Moka
It is sufficient to follow a few simple rules in order to make real Italian coffee at home:

• Buy good quality coffee, either ground specifically for use with “moka” (they come in vacuum-packed containers) or beans (to be freshly ground right before use).
  
• Use fresh, light water. Brackish, calcareous or hard water inhibits the release of aromas. Never use water that has already been boiled. Use cold water only.
  
• Use the right proportion of coffee and water. “Moka” coffee makers come in various sizes made for specific quantities. The rule of thumb is to use one tablespoon of ground coffee and four to five tablespoons of water to make one cup of coffee.
  
• Fill the bottom part of the “moka” with water up to the side valve. Fill the filter basket loosely with ground coffee, breaking any lumps with the edge of the spoon. Do not press the coffee into the filter.
  
• Place the “moka” over the flame, keeping the lid open so that steam doesn’t drop into the container, altering the taste of coffee.
• Don’t leave the coffee pot unattended. Turn off the flame a few seconds before the coffee has stopped gushing out into the “moka” container. Coffee should never boil, or it will taste bitter.
  
• Serve the coffee hot, as soon as it has been made, in order to enjoy it at its best. Leftover coffee can be kept in a glass or ceramic container (but never in a metallic one) and reheated either in a double boiler (bain-marie) or on an electric stove, but never directly over the flame.
  
• Carefully clean the coffee maker with boiling water, but do not use soap or detergents. The filter must be rinsed very carefully in order to remove any residues.

Making Coffee With an Espresso Maker
The rules for making espresso are rather strict because of the technology involved. The quality of a cup of espresso depends on three factors: the blend of coffee, the grinding and the espresso maker.

The Blend
The key here is to know how to blend various coffee types in order to get the desired aroma, taste and body, and to maintain the quality of that blend over time.
Generally speaking, the more complex the blend is (usually between five and eight different varieties of coffee can be used), the easier it is to maintain its quality over time. This is especially true because as some plants grow old and are replaced with younger ones with more marked characteristics, the other varieties help keep the general characteristics of the blend unaltered.

The Grinding
The heat-producing grinding process is a delicate one. Just one mistake can turn a promising blend into burnt powder. If ground too coarse, coffee becomes less soluble and does not release its aroma and taste into the water. If ground too fine, it yields an excessively strong beverage that tastes very bitter.

The Espresso Maker
The quality of the espresso depends on how well the espresso maker has been calibrated. Each machine must be calibrated in a different way, but there are some parameters that are the same for all espresso makers:

• The temperature of the water must be between 185 and 197˚F.
• The boiler pressure must be between 1.2 and 1.4 bars in hydraulic or continuous dispensation espresso makers.
• The pressure of the centrifuge pump must be set at 9.2 bars.
• A minimum quantity of 1/4 oz. of coffee must be used per cup.
• Coffee must be pressed into the filter at a pressure of between 44 lbs and 55 lbs.
• Brewing time for 1 oz. of coffee must be between 25 and 32 seconds.
• The temperature of the coffee in the cup, immediately after brewing, must be about 150˚F.

GRANITA AL LIMONE
 Lemon Ice

• 2 cups lemon juice
• 1 cup water
• 2 tbs. sugar

Blend all the ingredients, making sure that the sugar is completely dissolved. Strain the syrup into a flat pan and place in freezer. Scrape occasionally during the freezing process and churn before serving.
                                             
GRANITA AL CAFÉ
 Coffee Ice

• 2 cups espresso
  
• little water
  
• 2 tbs. sugar
  
• whipped cream

Follow the Granita al limone (Lemon Ice) recipe, replacing lemon with coffee. Serve topped with whipped cream.

 

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