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TALES OF THE TAILGATE
By Jim Dees
Tailgating at sporting events is now an ingrained institution and yet pizza is not always regarded as typical tailgating fare – a fact the pizza industry is working to change. Ribs, burgers and chicken are more often found sizzling on the grill at most stadium get-togethers. One man who has made a study of tailgating, Joe Cahn, the self-proclaimed “Commissioner of Tailgating,” says there are many factors that decide what food is consumed at tailgates. In 1996, Joe sold his business, the New Orleans Cooking School, bought a motor home, and has traveled the country for the last 10 years, investigating the art of tailgating. He says the ritual has evolved and is no longer limited to burgers on the gridiron.
“They tailgate at the Kentucky Derby, hockey games, at NASCAR races,” he says. “Anywhere there’s a celebration of the community. You get in the parking lot of any big sporting event, and we’re all one.” Cahn should know; he’s visited every NFL stadium in the United States and documented tailgaters on his Web site, tailgating.com. The “Commissioner” expects to put 32,000 miles on his motor home this fall, visiting 45 stadiums. He agrees that pizza isn’t a priority item at tailgating events.
You Are Where You Eat
“A lot of it is geography,” Cahn explains. “New England has its chowder; Kentucky has burgoo [a meat and vegetable stew]; Vancouver has seafood; and, in California, they tend to have more wine and salads. Tailgating is the best cooking class in the country.”
Along with geography and local custom, weather conditions are also a factor in what tailgaters choose to feast on.
“The climate is the major difference,” Cahn points out. “It affects the types of foods that are served and how they’re served,” he says. “For example, in August or September, when it’s still warm out, tailgates are lighter; people pack picnics. As it gets cooler, the grills come out.”
Grilling pizza? Absolutely, but first let’s talk about tailgating pizza the old fashioned way: using a conveyor oven in a mobile pizza kitchen.
Mobile to the Masses
Many operators nationwide have developed various versions of the mobile pizza kitchen. What follows is not set in stone but rather is a blueprint for getting a tailgating pizza operation off the ground - and to the stadium.
First, you may want to consider a system that uses a commissary or home base to service one or more vehicles, perhaps one on site at a stadium, the other, delivering pizza. Customers place orders with the home base which dispatches the vehicles to the customers’ location. A tailgating pizza vehicle–to cook and serve pizzas–should be a larger model truck, a 350 series for example, with a van body mounted on the rear. This system would require a driver and a cook to accomplish different tasks. The recommended oven would be a conveyor type with a belt. One AC generator (110/220 volt) would be required to power the oven, and another for a refrigerated case and other components (CD player, lights, etc.). An operator might also include a separate electrical generator and because of the heat generated by the oven, a ventilation hood.
Tunnel type conveyor belt pizza ovens typically operate at temperatures of 500˚F and require a substantial ventilation hood because of the heat lost from the oven’s inlet and outlet. Also recommended is the use of an impingement type oven modified for use with LP gas burners rather than electrical heating elements. This oven would have an average output of about 3,000 B.T.U. and operate with a consumption of about one pound of LP gas per hour. The oven does not have a flue, but rather relies on the open slots to exhaust the combustion products into the oven ventilation system.
The pizza crust can be partially assembled before transit, preferably by covering the proofed dough with a layer of sauce and a layer of cheese, before storing it in the refrigerated case. Assembly and cooking of the pizza is completed by the pizza cook while the vehicle is in transit, and/or once it arrives at the tailgating destination. A preferred cooking temperature would be 490-510˚F with a preferred cooking time of about 10-12 minutes for 13” and 15” pizzas.
Two looming factors that are intregal parts of a tailgating equation are the cost of gasoline and increased vehicle noise. Gas prices have proven to rise in summer and level back down in the fall in time for football season.
Chillin’ and Grillin’
A charcoal or wood-fired grill is the heat of choice at most tailgates. Pizza is not necessarily known as a dish to be grilled, unless you’re Al Forno’s in Providence, R.I., one of the nation’s most celebrated purveyors of northern Italian cuisine. The International Herald Tribune recently named it the world’s top destination for casual dining. Pizza grilled over a wood fire is one of the house specialties. (In fact, a picture of grilled pizzas appears on the introduction to its web site.)
Chef Brian Kingsford says the recipe for grilled pizza is not so important.
“You can make your pizza flavored to your liking,” he points out. “The main aspect of grilling pizza is the technique for cooking dough on a grill.” Brian says while propane will get the job done, a wood grill is preferable.
“With propane, you don’t get that smoky crust and aroma that makes grilled pizza so fantastic,” Brian proclaims. “Also, if you’re not that adept with hand-kneaded pizza dough – and there is something of an art to it – use a pre-made pizza dough like a Boboli. It will work fine.”
Brian further points out that most supermarkets and Italian specialty stores sell pre-made balls of dough that you can stretch out yourself. He says it’s a good way to practice without the pain of making your own dough from scratch. Brian also recommends building a fire on one side of the grill, and keeping the other side cool and to make practice pizzas before the game to get the timing down.
“Remember to use high-quality ingredients, like hand-shredded cheeses,” he adds. “The shredded cheese in those pre-packaged bags tastes phony. You don’t want to blow it on game day.”
As you can see, there are many ways, and various approaches, to tailgating pizza. Analyze your market and resources and decide if you’re game for tailgating. As with sports - and business- proper training and preparation are the keys to achieving the winning score.
Tailgating Favorites
Al Forno’s Grilled Pizza
1 pizza dough or suitable pre-made substitute (Boboli, etc.)
6 oz. grated cheese (a blend of cheddar, mozzarella and pecorino)
4 to 5 oz. arribiata sauce (a spicy tomato sauce)
1 medium yellow or red tomato, sliced
Fresh basil, roughly chopped
Fresh ground pepper
Olive oil
Corn meal
Procedure: Build fire on one side of grill, leaving the other side cool. Brush one side of dough very lightly with olive oil. Place oiled side of dough on hot side of grill. Brush top side of dough with oil as it cooks. Cook until dough stiffens and forms grill marks, about two minutes. Remove dough and place cooked side up on flat cookie sheet (if using fresh pizza dough, generously cover cookie sheet with corn meal so that dough will slide back off onto grill). Spoon thin layer of sauce over cooked side of dough, top with cheese, tomatoes, basil, pepper and other chosen herbs and spices (oregano, rosemary, etc.). Slide dough back on to hot side of grill. Cook about two minutes, until bottom stiffens and grill marks form. Slide dough over to cool side of grill, close grill top and continue cooking until cheese melts, about five minutes.
Grilled Pizza Margarita
6 ounces pizza dough (can be purchased in grocer’s refrigerated section)
¼ cup virgin olive oil, for brushing and drizzling
½ teaspoon minced fresh garlic
mozzarella slices
2 Tablespoons freshly grated pecorino Romano
6 Tablespoons chopped canned tomatoes, in heavy puree
8 basil leaves
Procedure: Prepare a hot charcoal fire, setting the grill rack 3 to 4 inches above the coals. On a large, oiled, inverted baking sheet, spread and flatten the pizza dough with your hands into a 10- to 12-inch free-form circle, 1/8-inch thick.
When the fire is hot, use your fingertips to lift the dough gently by the two corners closest to you, and drape in onto the grill. Catch the loose edge on the grill first and slide the remaining dough into place over the fire. Within a minute the dough will puff slightly, the underside will stiffen, and grill marks will appear. Using tongs, immediately flip the crust over, onto the coolest part of the grill. Quickly brush the grilled surface with olive oil. Scatter the garlic and cheeses over the dough and spoon dollops of tomato over the cheese. Finally, drizzle the pizza with one or two tablespoons of olive oil.
Slide the pizza back toward the hot coals, but not directly over them. Using tongs, rotate the pizza frequently so that different sections receive high heat; check the underside often to see that it is not burning. The pizza is done when the top is bubbly and the cheese melted, about 6 to 8 minutes.
Best Hot Wings Ever
10 to 12 chicken drumettes
1 Tablespoon Cajun pepper, plus more for seasoning wings
1 bottle chipotle pepper sauce
Honey
Procedure: Preheat a grill to medium-high. Season the wings with Cajun pepper. In a medium bowl, combine the chipotle pepper sauce with 1 tablespoon Cajun pepper, and honey, to taste. Place the wings on the grill and as you cook them, turn them and brush each time with the pepper sauce mixture. Make sure the wings cook long enough on each side so they get crispy around the edges. Remove the wings from the grill and brush again with the pepper sauce mixture before serving.
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| Grilled pizzettes are a viable option for tailgating parties. They have all the flavor of a regular pizza in a single-serving package. |
Take-And-Bake Right on the Grill
Back in May, Lindsi Miller, who works for Papa Murphy’s International, contacted us about this article and tailgate catering. She mentioned that she had made grilled pizza before and also alerted me to the baking instructions that are included with each take-and-bake pizza they sell. The instructions tell customers how to bake the pizza, but also explain how it can be grilled too. Hmmm…never thought of this, but what a great marketing tool for your take-and-bake pizzas.
Along with your regular marketing, you could also push how great your take-and-bakes are for Fourth of July grill-outs, tailgate parties before the game and any other situation where the electric or charcoal grill are fired up. Here are Papa Murphy’s instructions for how to grill a take-and-bake pizza (from www.papamurphys.com/public/menu_bakinginstructions.cfm). Barbecue pizza only in a covered barbecue.
Charcoal Style BBQ
Measure out 50 briquettes for a 23 inch round Barbecue (kettle type) or 70 briquettes for rectangular barbecue (18x32 inch). Use your preferred method to ignite briquettes. When briquettes are covered with ash (approximately 20-30 minutes) arrange them side by side on the outer edge of the firegate using a circular pattern. DO NOT PUT COALS DIRECTLY UNDER PIZZA. Set grill in place and cover barbecue, making sure all drafts are open to ensure maximum heating. Temperature of barbecue should be 425-450 degrees before putting pizza on the grill. If your barbecue does not have a thermostat, set a thermometer on the center of the grill making sure it is not directly over the coals. When the barbecue is hot (425-450 degrees) unwrap pizza and place in center of barbecue ON THE BAKING TRAY IT IS MADE ON. Please make sure there are no coals directly under the baking tray. Cover barbecue and bake pizza for 12-18 minutes. (Barbecue temperatures fluctuate, so baking times may vary.) Pizza is done when the crust is golden brown and the cheese is melted. When done, carefully remove pizza from grill and let set for 5 minutes. Cut into wedges and enjoy!
Gas Style BBQ
Flare the edges on a drip pan to make it as large as possible (a circular 16” disposable aluminum tray works even better). Place it in the center of the grill on the lower grate. Light only the front and rear burners leaving the center burners off. Preheat grill to approximately 450 degrees. Place pizza over the drip pan. Turn pizza a quarter turn after 10 minutes of total baking time. When crust is brown across the bottom, usually about 12 minutes, the pizza is ready. Carefully remove pizza from grill and let cool for 5 minutes before cutting.