
You've heard of the
calzone, empanada, pirogue and savory tart…but what of the great domed pizza in
the round? Believe it or not, at times my food travels turn to sourcing products
as a food detective. I had heard a rumor of a new-fangled pizza never before
created anywhere but in one restaurant in
Bali.
hen in Perth I took Skywest
Air to Bali and enjoyed a real cup of fresh brewed coffee before I rolled off
the plane and into the warmth and smells of Bali. I relaxed as I noted the many
offerings of rice, flowers and incense burning. First to the famed Kuta beach
for a swim and then to retrieve and review the pizza!
The
original owner, Nunzio Gumina, is an innovative restaurateur from Fremantle,
Australia, where he has now opened another unique foodservice operation,
Limoncello Café, in addition to Papa's Café, which is located at the famous Alam
KulKul Resort in Bali. Papa's Café is situated right in front near the beach for
guests and locals alike.
It was last July when I first
encountered the Volcano Pizza during a splendid spa stay at the exquisite Alam
Kulkul Boutique Resort. As soon as I set eyes on the voluminous domed pizza, I
thought of PMQ and how other pizza owners would like to know of this phenomenon.
These singular marvels include Volcano Fujiyama, which erupts with assorted
seafood, the Volcano Kintamani that is full of molten meats and Volcano Papa's
that explodes with the lot!
he beauty of this pizza is the
impact of its visual appeal and the presentation. The server carries the mammoth
pizza above his head on a silver platter. He places it on the table and draws
two long knives from a scabbard on either side of his apron. With another great
flourish and cry, he slices the pizza crosswise and cuts it open. Out comes the
fragrant steam of its contents and the filling spills on to the plate as the
upper crust is hacked to manageable mouthfuls.
The research that
went into keeping the dome up and fully engorged was quite long and involved.
The dough was tested and leavened with an air pocket like a Yorkshire pudding.
At some time, a small air pump was tried with a sterile stainless steel pointed
rod. Inserted into the covered pizza, the plastic bulb at the other end was
manually massaged. Not only did the lid grow to a dome, the top actually browned
crisp in the oven without deflating!
After creating six cookbooks
and countless culinary formulas, one of my favorite presentations is the edible
container. Sweet potato soufflé in acorn squash, soft scrambled eggs in avocado
halves or fish fillets in rice paper interests my sense of whimsy and omnivore
tendencies.
Fresh baked wood-fired bread or pizza crust has been
another beloved food, so encompassing the entire pizza without a soggy crust
appealed. The crust here is thin and delicate, but crusty with a slight
chewiness.

When it was brought to the table and slashed open, the fragrances were exhumed from a base of seafood or molten meats. Rather showy like a fajita, this is a popular choice for locals and tourists alike. Hmmm, maybe try a domed pizza fajita for fusion of two favorites...always food storming.
Papa's Café
www.papascafe.com
www.alamkulkul.com
-- PMQ --