
According
to documented history, Lombardi's was the first American pizzeria.
Pizza didn't
gain its popularity until just after World War II, but Lombardi's,
opened by
Gennaro Lombardi, began selling pizza in New York City in 1905, so you might
say Gennaro is the
father of American pizza. Lombardi's was originally a grocery, but it
soon
became a popular stop for workers looking for something to take to work
for
lunch. Gennaro started selling cheese pies, which were wrapped in paper
and
tied with a string, and the many workers of Italian descent would take
them to
the job site. Gennaro's son, John, took over after Genarro passed away
and the
business eventually went to Genarro's grandson, Jerry. Over the years,
Lombardi's continued to sell pizza, becoming a cult-like Mecca for pizza
enthusiasts. In 1984,
Lombardi's closed its doors. In 1994, John Brescio, who was a childhood
friend
of Gennaro's grandson, Jerry, started talking to Jerry about reopening
Lombardi's and in that same year they did, but not in the same
location. They
moved a block down the street to 32 Spring Street.
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Anthony
Pero got his start at Lombardi’s, but left in 1924 to open Totonno's
Pizzeria
in Coney Island. Anthony Pero and
Gennaro were
friends in Naples,
where Anthony was a baker. Back then, Anthony only made so much dough
for the
day. When it was gone, that was it. Ask any of the old taxi drivers who
the
Pizza Nazi was…it was Anthony. Because the ovens cook so fast, you get
some
small burn spots on the bottom of the crust. That's New York pizza,
but if a customer would come
up to the counter and say something, Anthony would take the pizza from
them and
tell them to get out because he had plenty of people who wanted it. The
original Totonno's location in Coney Island
only sells pizza and drinks. The new location offers pastas, salads,
entrées
and appetizers.
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In the heart of Greenwich Village, between 6th and 7th Avenues,
you’ll find Bleecker
Street.
Back in the 1920s and 1930s it was home for many Italian immigrants.
From 14th Street
to the
bridge, it was a family-oriented area. In 1929, John Sasso was working
at
Lombardi’s Pizza on Spring Street. In 1929, John decided to strike out
on his
own and open his own place, which can still be found on Bleecker Street.
John’s was around from
the beginning and the torch has been passed from one family member to
another.
What a time to open. It was the middle of the Depression. John came
here from
Lombardi’s and ran the place until about 1953. Back in those years, Bleecker Street
was
lined with vendors and their pushcarts. It was a great thing and they
still try
to keep that same family-oriented atmosphere at John’s.
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Patsy and
Carmella Lanceri married in 1932 and opened Patsy’s in 1933. The
history of
Patsy’s is the history of New
York.
In 1933, Prohibition ended, and Patsy decided to open a
bar/pizzeria/clam
house. Carmella said “okay” and they rented the spot for $40 a month.
Patsy was
originally a pastry chef. They put in a brick oven and as they
purchased the
adjacent buildings and expanded, they would cut a hole in the wall and
move the
oven. Patsy and Carmella lived upstairs until partners John Brecevich
and Frank
Brija bought the place. Patsy passed away in 1974. Even after they
bought the
place in 1990, Carmella would still come in every two weeks to make
sure
everything was being done the way she used to do it. She was very
happy…it was
still the same guys cooking in the kitchen. The guy back there now has
been
here for over 25 years.
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Patsy
Grimaldi started Grimaldi’s Pizza in 1990. While it may not seem like
one of
the landmark pizzerias by it’s age, its owner gives it its legendary
status.
Patsy Grimaldi, who is now 71, started making pies at his uncle Patsy
Lanceri's
restaurant (Patsy’s) in 1941 at the age
of 10. Patsy Grimaldi is still alive today and can occasionally be
found
sitting around Grimaldi’s. “I worked in my uncle’s restaurant until
about 1953,
when I went into the service,” Patsy says. “I came out and went back to
work
for my uncle until about 1974, which is when he died. When that
happened, I
went to work at another restaurant right around the corner from where
Grimaldi’s is now. I learned the right way to make pizza at my
uncle’s,” Patsy
says. “The correct way…the only way. Some of my most memorable
experiences
there were meeting all of the famous people who would come through.
People like
Joe DiMaggio, Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall. It was there I met Frank.
Those
were nice memories…good times.” The Frank he is speaking of is none
other than
Old Blue Eyes, Frank Sinatra.
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It
all started back in 1950. One of the
Patrillo brothers of Frank’s Pizzeria saw a young guy leaning against a
building. Frank was the son-in-law of John Sasso who opened John’s
Pizza on Bleecker Street.
“You wanna work for me as a waiter?” he asked the guy. “I don’t know
anything
about waiting no tables,” the guy responded. “I’ll teach ya. Come in
tomorrow
at five and wear a white shirt and black pants.” Six years later, this
young
guy opened Arturo’s Pizzeria.
“When
I decided to open my own place, I had no money,” Arturo says. “In 1957,
I took
$4,000 and started a business. I borrowed $1,000 from my mother-in-law,
$1,000
from my aunt, $1,000 from my sister and I had $1,000.” Arturo’s is one
of those
places that seems to attract a unique blend of people. Adorning the
walls are
countless photos of people like Tony Bennett, mayors, actors and other
celebrities. “I’m into food and music,” Arturo says. “We have jazz
every
night…it’s unbelievable. I don’t know which attracts more people, the
music or
the food, but I think it’s about the same.”
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The inside
is about as basic as any place could be. There are about three or four
plain,
wooden tables and chairs and a counter with a small table and oven
behind it in
the front corner. Behind the counter in the front corner is a window
that opens
up to the sidewalk. A couple of herbs are growing in the window. The
owner is
Domenico DiMarco (Domenic to everyone who knows him) and the pizzeria
is
DiFara’s Pizza. Domenic came to the U.S. in 1959 at the age of
23. Back
in Italy, he was a
farmer,
but moved to the U.S.
with
his brother because he said Italy
was no good after the war. Domenic is the only person you see out
front. He is
a one-man operation and everyone who comes in is on his time schedule.
You come
to love the wait and watch a way of business that has long been
forgotten in
the hustle and bustle of everyday life. You walk in DiFara’s and you
walk into
a time warp…you are in Domenic’s world and on his time…you eat when he
is ready
for you to eat.
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L&B got its start
back in 1939 when Ludovico
Barbati (that’s where the L&B came from) came to the U.S.
with an
idea for selling spumoni. He started out with a small horse-drawn
carriage from
which he sold the cool, creamy treat. He had three sons, two of whom
went into
military service. As each one returned from service, a section was
added to the
business and they went to work with their father. The original house
that
everyone grew up in was located directly behind the restaurant. “We all
grew up
here,” Louie Barbati says. “Everyone would walk out of the house right
into
work. My grandfather built a business around his life, or vice-versa.
We used
to store all of our ingredients in his garage. It started out as just a
spumoni
business, but when my uncle came out of the service they added the
pizzeria and
then the restaurant.” From one generation to the next, L&B Spumoni Gardens
has remained a
family tradition. According to several family members, there are
several
great-grandchildren poised to take over in the years to come.
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If you are
in New York City
and ask 10 different people where Ray’s Pizza is, you will probably get
10
different answers. You have Ray’s Pizza, Famous Ray’s, World Famous
Ray’s
Pizza, The Original Ray’s Pizza, The Original World Famous Ray’s,
RayBari Pizza
and even one named Not Ray’s Pizza. Why are there so many Ray’s in New York? In
the 1970s,
there was a pizzeria named Ray’s that gained much popularity in NYC. So
much,
that others wanted to jump in on the action, so there were several
variations
of the name used. No one really knows who was the first, who was the
best or
who really owned the name, but three saavy New York pizzeria owners, who
happened to
have pizzerias named Ray’s in some form or fashion, decided to join
forces and
trademark the name. With their trademarked name, they attempted to
eliminate
the use of Ray’s by every other pizzeria in the city. But one pizzeria
stood up
and fought back…RayBari. Rather than cave in to the conglomerate’s
demands, the
guys at RayBari, who had built their own reputation as one of New
York’s best
pizzerias, chose to make Ray Bari one word (RayBari), create a logo
that
incorporated the name and the New York skyline and continue doing what
they had
always done, which is make great New York pizza. They won their fight
and are
now as famous (no pun intended) in New York as Joe DiMaggio.
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When I met
up with Fred Lacagnina, we sat down and he told me his story. Back in
1929, his
grandmother’s brother opened a pizzeria in Harlem
(Patsy’s). I asked Fred if there was anything about Patsy and his
restaurant
that he brought in to his restaurant. He said it was passion. “A
restaurant is
a place to come and relax, eat and have social interaction,” Fred
explained.
“Don’t get in the business for money or fame, get in it because it is
what you
love. My best advice is to put quality food on the table, have great
service
and be clean. If you have those three things, it will be hard to fail.
My uncle
was in an old building with a tin ceiling and original wood floors, but
he had
those three things in place and was a success. Concentrate on what’s
important.
After my aunt sold Patsy’s, she would come in and sit in the corner. It
made me
feel good to have her come in here and see what she and my uncle had
started.
Of course, I was always worried that what I was doing wouldn’t meet up
to her
standards, but I think she approves.”
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